Paddling the Raquette River article.
Sep 12, 2016 - RAQUETTE RIVER & FOLLENSBY POND OUTLET upstream from The Crusher boat launch. Lovely section of the RR - shoreline varies from silver maple floodplain to mixed upland forest, some interesting backwaters. Trombley Landing, lean-to in bay. Lunch at campsite #17 (at 3.75 miles). 1.3 miles up FPO thru a grassy vly to posted land - very shallow, had to get out & line short distances a few times - hopefully the state will buy this area from The Nature Conservancy soon. FPO is a narrow winding stream - maps show a flow which might have existed back when there was a dam at the mouth - remains of the dam can still be seen. 10.4 miles, 6.4 hours. 2 days ago, hundreds paddled down the RR during the 90-miler race - today I saw 1 kayak, 1 canoe, 1 motorboat & 1 SUP.
Sep 21, 2014 - STONY CREEK & AMPERSAND BROOK. Water level on the low side. Got about a mile up AB, pulled over one logjam & turned around at another (should not be too hard to portage on river R & continue but I wanted to get back to camp before the forecasted rain). Checked out a lovely backwater that stretched out to the E - grassy shores waved in the wind with scarlet maples backed by green pines & cedars, good view of Stony Creek & Ampersand Mtns. SC is 2 miles long & twisty, noticeable current. Turtle, bald eagle, dragonflies, orange butterflies, ducks. Brilliant fall colors. 6.6 miles. 3 hours. The new The Saranac Lakes map has inset showing the area well. RAQUETTE RIVER. Upstream from camp. Coyote swam across river. Got out & bushwhacked short distance to an interesting meadow with bushes to the knees. Silver & red maples line the shores. Rain in evening, nice to be in a lean-to. Chipmunks, red squirrels & blue jay in camp. 1 motorboat went by - the ranger?.
Sep 2&3, 2012 - LONG LAKE & RAQUETTE RIVER. Great view of the Sewards all the way up LL & of the Santanonis (replete with Ermine Brook Slide) from the N end of the lake. Stopped at a beach for lunch & swim - cut short by biting flies ("ankle-biters" - look like house flies) - bugs not really a problem rest of trip. Mouth of RR very shallow. 15.1 miles from the state boat launch in Long Lake Village to start of the 1.3 mile carry around Raquette Falls. Doubled the early uphill on the carry then singled the rest. Camped at campsite #3 amongst conifers, the closest to the river (from the carry trail take the Lower Falls Trail 100 yds). Ranger Gary visited with us both evening & morning. Labor Day: took a short walk to the Lower Falls in the morning - still an impressive 10' drop despite lower than normal water. 13.1-mile paddle downstream on the Raquette River to "The Crusher" state boat launch on Rt.3, E of Tupper Lake Village. Very shallow at first. Low shores with silver maples, some piney upland. Many campsites & a few lean-tos along the way. Lunch & swim at sandy beach near Stony Creek. Fair amount of motorboats on Long Lake, a handful on the Raquette (most going too fast), a few paddlers too. Swift Keewaydin 15 solo canoe.
Nov 8, 2010 - STONY CREEK & PONDS. Temp barely rising above freezing. Snowflakes, drizzle, sleet - thought this might shorten the trip but we still had much fun. Upstream on the Raquette River (noticeable current) a short distance then L up winding Stony Creek. Near N end of the Stony Ponds took a channel to the E. Up over a beaver dam (glad I had the mukluks on) then a short 20' carry around another beaver dam to an isolated pond, Stony Creek Mtn rises to the E. 4 hours.
I have previously paddled all the way to Tupper Lake - the Oxbow was interesting but you do get some road-noise in this section & when we got to the lake there was a good headwind & had to paddle hard to get to the state boat launch.
On an October camping trip, one of our party drove his truck into the water at Axton Landing to break the ice that was forming in the cove. We paddled up to the falls and camped at the lean-to that seems to get left off of maps.
On another October trip, we camped below Axton with about an inch of snow on the ground.
Lean-to camping near Axton in March.
Nov 9-11, 2003 - RAQUETTE RIVER from Axton Landing (between Tupper & Saranac) canoeing, camping, hiking. Had to break thru an inch of ice to put in at the sandy ramp which is in a backwater out of the main flow of the river. Water level very high, over the low banks at times. River is 50-100' wide in this section & winds thru low shores of silver maple & grass - many backwaters invite exploration but also tended to have ice. E shore is in the High Peaks Wilderness - W shore is private land (hunters on ATV's use a dirt road near the river & any gunshots we heard tended to be from that side of the river). Seward, Donaldson & Emmons Mountains could often be seen en route. Paddled against a good current to 3rd leanto (not on maps) near Palmer Brook (~4 miles) - a pleasant leanto among birches & pines facing S. After setting up camp, paddled about 2 miles to bottom of Raquette Falls, a mile long set of non-stop class 3, 4 & 5+ rapids which drop the river 80'. Walked a short trail to the Lower Falls - a powerful torrent sprays & splashes thru a small gorge dropping about 15'. Mostly cloudy overnight which kept the temp from dropping much below freezing. The sun broke thru early Monday & we had a pleasant walk toward trailhead to meet Hombrua who was backpacking in. Enjoyed the open views thru the leafless trees. Later we hiked to the falls past another leanto & many pleasant views across the Raquette's backwaters. Saw a mink on the ice. Walked a path from the Lower to Upper Falls then returned on the carry trail which climbs away from the river. The Upper Falls also drops about 15' as the water funnels into a powerful hydraulic. Starry evening around the campfire but temp only dropped into the 20s. Bright pink at sunrise but clouds & snow/sleet showers accompanied us on the paddle out. With the current, we were at Stony Creek in 50 minutes. Turned into the creek then into Ampersand Brook until a beaverdam turned us around. A spur led us into the Stony Ponds - a mix of public land & light tasteful development on its pine/cedar shores. Stony Creek & Ampersand Mountains loom to the E. We headed N then W - a tailwind blew hard & the sleet was shooting across almost horizontally. Take-out at state land on Coreys Rd, then we walked the road 1.5 miles to retrieve cars at Axton. Bell Northwind , a 17.5' tandem canoe, has plenty of primary stability to feel confident on water that is barely above freezing, also has excellent secondary stability, very good glide, turns easily & accommodates extra gear well.
Oct 27 & 28, 2002 - Raquette River canoe-camping on the stretch between Axton & Tupper Lake. Inch or 2 of snow on ground on Sunday from Pottersville to Newcomb but none around Long Lake & Tupper Lake (still some snow on ground on Monday from Indian Lake down to North Creek). Put-in at state launch on RT.3 (E of Tupper Lake). Paddled upstream against very mild current. Hunters have set up temporary camps on some of the campsites (all campers need a permit from the ranger to stay at any one site for more than 3 nites in the Adirondacks) - some even have gas grills & antennas! After 1.5 miles reach the 2 leantos at Trombley Landing - checked out the easternmost one in a bay with island (clean & in good shape). River averages 100' in width & winds thru varied shoreline. Leafless silver maples were common on the flatter shores, mixed woods on the hillier ones - still some color but past peak. Many side bays & channels for exploring. Saw 4 other canoeists, 2 kayakers & only 1 motorboat. Pass Follensby Pond Outlet on the S (4 mile mark) & half mile later take a campsite high up on rocky shore with views to the WSW of the Seward Mtns. Some brief showers. Temp barely over 40 so started a campfire (mixed some wood we brought along with some wetter wood lying around) & relaxed the rest of the day. Skies cleared for a time in the evening revealing the starry sky. Read a book on birchbark canoes. Barely hit freezing overnite. Paddled & explored mouth of Follensby Pond Outlet - stream winds thru grasses (maps show a wide pond-like area but most of water is grass). Soon posted signs are seen. Half a mile to the S is Follensby Pond which is private. The state had the opportunity to buy the large pond & a large hunk of land a few years ago but did not act quickly enough (lack of funds at the time) & the owner got cold feet & took it off the market - maybe sometime we'll get another chance. See 3 ospreys on the return to camp. Packed up & paddled out - temp in the 30s - occasional snow/sleet showers - a nice, peaceful day nonetheless. Merrimack Baboosic, a 14' solo canoe, worked out nicely as usual. Friend paddled a Bell Northstar (a 16'6" tandem) solo from a kneeling thwart & had no problems keeping up.
Oct 27 & 28, 2002 - Raquette River canoe-camping on the stretch between Axton & Tupper Lake. Inch or 2 of snow on ground on Sunday from Pottersville to Newcomb but none around Long Lake & Tupper Lake (still some snow on ground on Monday from Indian Lake down to North Creek). Put-in at state launch on RT.3 (E of Tupper Lake). Paddled upstream against very mild current. Hunters have set up temporary camps on some of the campsites (all campers need a permit from the ranger to stay at any one site for more than 3 nites in the Adirondacks) - some even have gas grills & antennas! After 1.5 miles reach the 2 leantos at Trombley Landing - checked out the easternmost one in a bay with island (clean & in good shape). River averages 100' in width & winds thru varied shoreline. Leafless silver maples were common on the flatter shores, mixed woods on the hillier ones - still some color but past peak. Many side bays & channels for exploring. Saw 4 other canoeists, 2 kayakers & only 1 motorboat. Pass Follensby Pond Outlet on the S (4 mile mark) & half mile later take a campsite high up on rocky shore with views to the WSW of the Seward Mtns. Some brief showers. Temp barely over 40 so started a campfire (mixed some wood we brought along with some wetter wood lying around) & relaxed the rest of the day. Skies cleared for a time in the evening revealing the starry sky. Read a book on birchbark canoes. Barely hit freezing overnite. Paddled & explored mouth of Follensby Pond Outlet - stream winds thru grasses (maps show a wide pond-like area but most of water is grass). Soon posted signs are seen. Half a mile to the S is Follensby Pond which is private. The state had the opportunity to buy the large pond & a large hunk of land a few years ago but did not act quickly enough (lack of funds at the time) & the owner got cold feet & took it off the market - maybe sometime we'll get another chance. See 3 ospreys on the return to camp. Packed up & paddled out - temp in the 30s - occasional snow/sleet showers - a nice, peaceful day nonetheless. Merrimack Baboosic, a 14' solo canoe, worked out nicely as usual. Friend paddled a Bell Northstar (a 16'6" tandem) solo from a kneeling thwart & had no problems keeping up.
Aug. 4/5, 2001 - Long Lake/Raquette River canoe/camping. Put-in at the state boat launch in Long Lake Village after spotting cars at the state fishing access site on Rt.3 east of Tupper Lake. Headed north on Long Lake. A few motorboats passed us along the way. Stopped at a beach about half way up the lake near the old trail to Kempshall Mt. & went for a swim in the warm water. The Seward Range dominated the view to the north & the Santanonis to the east. At the north end of the lake (9.5 mi. from start) is a large (& popular) beach backed by red pines & blueberry bushes which made for a nice lunchstop. A light current helped us along the 6 mi. of Raquette River to the 1.25 mi. carry around Raquette Falls. Doubled the carry; one trip with most gear & paddles strapped to a Sealline Propack & a second trip carrying the canoe (please remind to add a yoke pad). A couple of touring kayaks were in our group & both showed up with Paddleboy carts that go over the end of the kayaks requiring one to lift most of the weight of the kayak over somewhat rough terrain (especially the early uphill secftion.) The small hard rubber wheels do not travel well over trails & I only recommend this cart for rolling your kayak over pavement or very smooth dirt surfaces. I had brought my Roleez Canoe/Kayak Cart which I did not use on my canoe because I found it relatively easy to do a regular overhead carry. The Roleez's fat pneumatic tires + the fact that it centers under the load made it easier to bring the kayaks thru the carry (for 4WD, put the Roleez in the middle & the Paddleboy over the rear end!) A bunch of kids were in the leanto near the end of the carry but there are many nice piney campsites in the area. A ranger station is near & the affable Ben Woodard stopped by the campsite to say Hi in the evening. Years ago, Ben had taught a 2.5 day wilderness 1st aid course which I had participated in. Took a short walk along a side trail along the river to the scenic Lower Falls. The main drop is about 8' but side channels add to the visual interest. Waited somewhat impatiently for the full moon to rise over our crackling campfire. Converted my Thermarest into a very comfortable (+ compact & light) Easy Chair (backpacker's combo of sleeping pad, easy rest, stuff sack & repair kit can be had for under $100 at APnP - call (518)346-3180 to order, only $5.95 shipping.) Last one to bed & first to rise, Nehasane takes a walk to the beach area near the end of the carry trail. Sit on a rock & sip my coffee as mist rises over the river. An osprey takes off from a tree across the river. A bald eagle (possibly 2) lands on a tree a bit downstream. We take our time breaking camp & then paddle about 6 mi. to the beach landing just before the Stoney Creek. Kingfishers & sandpipers are often seen. The white-toed, long-legged flycatcher was everpresent (Hombrua's dog.) Shoreline along most of the river is mostly silver maples with a tall grass understory. Red cardinal flower, purple pickerelweed & white water lilies added color to the show. Low water level reveals sandy banks. Leantos dot the whole route along Long Lake & the Raquette. Short distance past Stoney Creek we pass Axton Landing, a popular put-in site, & then it is about 7 mi. to our take-out. As we travel closer to our endpoint, more motorboats are evidenced & only detract slightly from the trip. Shoreline varies a bit (occasionaly steeper & more pines) & some choice campsites are passed. Care has to be taken to stay in proper channel but red & green navigation buoys help (but I wouldn't mind if they were removed.) Did most of the trip in the stern of the Bell Northwind which glided along wonderfully & turned easily thru the many bends in the river. Near the end switched places with Hombrua & I paddled his Bell Merlin II rediscovering the pleasures of paddling solo in a great canoe. Mostly sunny, light breeze, perhaps a bit too hot. Some deerflies bothered others more than me; surprised at the lack of mosquitoes. Over 30 mi. of paddling; min. of 1.25 mi. of carry (I walked at least 4 mi.)
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