THE BEST WEEK-LONG PADDLING TRIP IN THE ADIRONDACKS
We are lucky to have many scenic lakes, ponds and other waterways in the Adirondacks that are available for us to paddle. However, it is not so easy for the tripper to find a true wilderness route in the Adirondacks of over 50 miles – one that is essentially motorless, does not cross any paved roads, and has minimal sights and sounds of civilization. Paddlers have traveled far and wide to places like Ontario's Algonquin Provincial Park and Minnesota's Boundary Waters to get that wilderness tripping experience. The Adirondack Park does not have the quantity of routes that those places offer but it does offer areas of superior scenic quality, especially when it comes to mountain views.
The trip from Little Tupper Lake to the Oswegatchie River via Lake Lila and Lows Lake qualifies as the Adirondacks' best paddling route. Paddlers with less time or energy can sample parts of this route. For day-trippers and weekenders, Little Tupper Lake, Lake Lila, Lows Lake and the Oswegatchie River are fairly easy to access - Lows has a very short carry, Lila has just a 0.3-mile carry.
I am not going to attempt to give you a detailed guide to the route – for that, check the references listed below. Adirondack wilderness trips usually involve some carries and so are best done with lightweight boats – most kayaks are too heavy and folks who prefer to use double-bladed paddles can opt to use a pack canoe. During the planning process, one must also figure out how to shuttle between start and finish, a distance of about 55 road miles. Local businesses, like Raquette River Outfitters and St. Regis Canoe Outfitters, can do the shuttle for you for a fee.
The trip starts at Little Tupper Headquarters on Sabattis Road. There is a complex of buildings here, and there are a few "camps" at the east end of the lake but most of the lake is in the Whitney Wilderness Area and, after a half-hour paddle, you have left civilization behind. Wind and waves can be a problem on this shallow lake, especially when the wind is blowing from the west or southwest, so an early morning start when the lake is more likely to be calm is advisable. Note that, in the Whitney Wilderness, overnight groups of no more than eight people are allowed at tent sites and camping is only allowed at designated campsites.
After about 4 miles of lake travel, the route enters Rock Pond Outlet, a fairly wide 1.5-mile-long meandering stream with some boggy shoreline. There is usually at least one beaver dam to lift over before reaching a short carry to Rock Pond. Don't be surprised if an osprey vocalizes its displeasure with your arrival at the pond. Rock Pond has 6 campsites, has a wonderful remote feel, and makes a good first night's stop.
The start of the 1.8-mile carry to Hardigan Pond was moved a few years ago to avoid a very muddy start and, although much of it is on old logging roads, it may still have some wet spots. We were fortunate to see a mother bear with 3 cubs at the pond, but we were soon discovered and they quickly scampered away down the outlet. Taking advantage of high water in early May, our small group decided to give the outlet a try and that worked out in our favor – the tiny stream was narrow and twisty and there were a few beaver dams to go over but we made it. The 0.5-mile carry to Salmon Lake Outlet that we avoided has been rerouted – the old route was notoriously muddy.
Salmon Lake Outlet is, thankfully, a bit wider and a light current helped us along. We passed Little Salmon Lake (there are 3 campsites in this area) and, further down the stream, came to the 0.5-mile carry to Lilypad Pond.
After a short paddle across the pond, there is a 0.8-mile carry over to Shingle Shanty Brook and a twisty but scenic 1.5-mile paddle to Lake Lila, listen here for bitterns and keep an eye out for palm warblers in the alders. Lila is an understandably popular lake with weekenders and day-trippers despite the carry in. The lake has sandy beaches, islands, and some desirable campsites – on a summer weekend you may have to spend some time finding an available site. There is a 1.6-mile hiking trail to a lookout on Mount Frederica but my preferred viewing spot is an easy bushwhack to an unnamed peak east of Harrington Brook.
Our route continues on a rough carry to Harrington Brook where the footing is not always the best. Ignore the first brook sighting and proceed to a rocky landing at the brook a bit further upstream. After a short paddle, Rainer Brook comes in from the left and the railroad tracks (currently unused by trains) can be seen. You may want to explore lilypad-filled Harrington Pond and/or Rainer Brook before starting the 0.5-mile carry along the tracks.
Look for a well-marked left turn onto the 0.4-mile trail to Clear Pond. Two members of our party, with vision impaired by an overhead canoe and also concentrating on the footing, missed the turn – if much more than 15 minutes has passed since leaving Harrington Brook, check to make sure you haven't passed the trail.
The campsite on Clear Pond is not the most exciting and the carry to Bog Lake is fairly easy and partly on a dirt road used by members of Robinwood Park, a hunting and fishing club, and the Bog Lake campsite is more desirable. One then paddles the twisty outlet, the Bog River, to Lows Lake (aka Bog River Flow) – another fun paddle – the Lows Lake Paddlers and Hikers Map put out by Raquette River Outfitters is the most accurate map for this section. Most maps show Bog Lake extending up close to Lows Lake, but in actuality the eastern half is a stream through a boggy area. Once out onto Lows, you soon reach a large floating bog – the direct route to the next carry is to the left of the bog but you can also go to the right of the bog – which way you go may depend on where you desire to camp.
Lows Lake is fairly large and can get quite choppy when windy. It is worth spending an extra day here and it is a great place to see and hear loons. A short but steep hike leads to a large area of open rock on Grass Pond Mountain with great views of the lake and offers a good visual feel for the lay-of-the-land.
From the west end of Lows there is a 0.8-mile carry to Big Deer Pond, I suspect the “Big” refers to the deer rather than the pond as it is an easy paddle across to the Headwaters Carry which, at 2.2 miles, is the longest carry on the trip. A section may be flooded by beavers and there is a small hill to go up and over; look out for a mailbox with a logbook inside. Then one passes a stretch of blowdown from a microburst in 1995 where I noticed a lot of bear scat in the trail.
The Oswegatchie River is reached at a spot called Beaverdam where a spring produces clear cold water. It's all downriver from here. Unfortunately, there will be many beaver dams to go over as well as several blockages – just think of it as a fun obstacle course. The meandering river takes its time making its way for 5 miles to High Falls, it's not particularly high but it is very picturesque. There are 2 lean-tos here.
Further downriver, many campsites and 2 more lean-tos beg you to stay longer, plus you will note that beaver dams and obstacles become much less frequent. From High Falls, you have 13 wild, meandering miles of cruising to Inlet Landing, the take-out.
Chances are you can't wait to do it all over again!
Adirondack Paddler’s Guide by Dave Cilley is very helpful. The companion Adirondack Paddler’s Map, is also worth purchasing for its detailed locations of portages and campsites.
For more information, visit these sites:
https://www.dec.ny.gov/lands/9165.html
https://www.dec.ny.gov/lands/75295.html
https://www.dec.ny.gov/lands/34719.html
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