SAINT REGIS CANOE AREA

The St. Regis Canoe Area (SRCA) covers over 18,000 acres and is the only designated Canoe Area in New York State. There are over 50 motor-less ponds of various sizes within the SRCA and one can find 70 designated primitive campsites spread out over 20 of those ponds – camping is limited to 8 persons per site. Marked "carries" of varying lengths and difficulty connect many of the ponds - one can easily spend as much time on one's feet as on one's butt while traveling through the area. St. Regis Mountain (2,874' elevation) and Long Pond Mountain (2,530') are the notable peaks in the SRCA and both have marked hiking trails to their open summits.

The SRCA is managed similarly to designated "Wilderness Areas" but the Adirondack Park State Land Master Plan allows for biking on designated trails within a "Canoe Area" as well as the use of motor vehicles, motorized equipment, and aircraft by administrative personnel for purposes designed to preserve or enhance the water or fishery resources. These uses are restricted primarily to the 4.7-mile Fish Pond Truck Trail and the 0.25-mile St. Regis Pond Truck Trail – that being said, on all of my visits I have never seen a vehicle nor a bike.

For the purposes of this article, we will travel across the area from east to west.

One can start on Lower St. Regis Lake at Paul Smith's College or on Upper St. Regis Lake at the end of St. Regis Carry Road, at a boat launch next to the post office. You will have to share these lakes with motorboats and sailboats, especially in summer. The shores are developed but the fancy "camps" found along the shoreline can be visually entertaining. If one has time, a detour to the west end of Upper St. Regis Lake will bring you to Camp Topridge, an Adirondack-style great camp consisting of 60 buildings. A little south of Topridge, in Spring Bay, is the start of a trail up to the summit fire tower on St. Regis Mountain where views include most of the SRCA, the Saranac Lakes as well as most of the High Peaks. The mountain and fire tower are often in view from many of the ponds in the SRCA.

The first carry of our journey starts after paddling 0.7 miles from the boat launch, passing Roiley Bog and a couple of islands. The carry to Bog Pond is short and sweet. Bog Pond is tiny but you may want to take things slowly so as to examine the fascinating plants along its boggy shores. Technically, you are not yet in the SRCA.

Another short and easy carry leads into Bear Pond where the water is clear and deep - quite a contrast from Bog Pond's brown water. The lean-tos seen here are on private land but the west and south shores are state land and are in the SRCA. On most of my trips, I like to paddle unhurriedly the long way around each pond to see what I may find and to maximize my time in the canoe.

Next, there is a moderate 0.2-mile carry to Little Long Pond. Fish can be seen swimming by, darting in and out of the lily pads in the pond's shallow east end. Loons and osprey nest here and civilization now seems far away. Little Long, at 1,654', is the highest elevation pond along our route.

Another 0.2-mile carry leads to Green Pond. The water of this small glacial pond is deep, clear and green, as its name implies. A little-used 0.7-mile carry leads south to Little Clear Pond. Most folks take the short carry to St. Regis Pond.

A west wind can create some choppy waters on St. Regis Pond as it blows across its 1.5-mile-long length but the prudent paddler can hide behind an occasional island and make some headway into the wind. St. Regis has 12 campsites and one lean-to and is one of the most popular ponds in the SRCA. When I last visited, the loons were quite agitated, prolifically vocalizing their tremolos. After pulling out my spyglass, I spotted a pair of bald eagles flying above and waiting for an opportunity to snatch a loon chick for their next meal.

From the south bay, a 0.6-mile carry leads to Little Clear Pond and one of the most-used entry points to the SRCA, a sandy beach at its southwest end. Camping and fishing are not allowed on Little Clear because the nearby state fish hatchery uses it for breeding land-locked salmon.

Moving west from St. Regis Pond, one has some choices. It is a smooth, wheelable carry of over 2 miles to Fish Pond along the St. Regis Pond and Fish Pond Truck Trails. For those who prefer to stay in their boats, one can try paddling the outlet of St. Regis Pond, the West Branch of the St. Regis River, below the fish barrier dam. The last time I tried this it took me 30 minutes to get to Ochre Pond - I went over 5 beaver dams and some shallow obstructions. I returned to St. Regis Pond on the 0.6-mile carry trail - that took me 12 minutes with the canoe over my head. I enjoyed the stream paddling more than the carry though.

From Ochre, the carry trail to Fish is 1.4-miles-long and goes along an esker and through some beautiful old-growth forest. You can break up the carry by detouring through Mud Pond - you may find some mud but the pond is serene and scenic.

Fish Pond has two lean-tos and a couple of designated campsites. Short carries lead into Little Fish, Little Long (not the same as the one to the east) and Lydia Ponds - there is a good chance you won't see other people on these as you are now well away from civilization. When I camped on Little Long (west) the campfire ring was inhabited by snakes.

From Little Long, a short carry leads to Kit Fox Pond then another 0.27-mile carry drops you at Nellie Pond. From Nellie it is a rough 1.2-mile carry to a beaver pond. Soon after leaving Nellie, a short detour goes to Bessie Pond - this lovely pond is worth the side-trip and makes for a good spot to take a break.

After the beaver pond, it is another 0.35-mile walk to Long Pond. One of the larger ponds in the area with over 8 miles of shoreline, Long Pond is very popular - relatively easy access makes it a desirable destination for both campers and day-trippers. It is an easy 0.25-mile carry from a parking area on Floodwood Road or a hop, skip and a jump via Turtle and Slang Ponds from an access on Hoel Pond.

Long Pond's attractions include a route into Pink and Little Pink Ponds, a great swimming beach at the start of the carry to Slang Pond and a 1.6-mile hike past Mountain Pond and up Long Pond Mountain. Many loons make their summer homes on Long Pond. I've witnessed a fight over territory between two of them - this was quite the spectacle to watch as they poked at each other with their beaks and punched with their wings.

My preferred map is the Adirondack Paddlers Map - St. Regis Canoe Wilderness. More info and a map of campsites can be found on NYSDEC's website at http://www.dec.ny.gov/lands/70572.html.

In the Adirondack Park, there are 43 Mud Ponds, 21 Long Ponds, 16 Clear Ponds, 16 Round Ponds, 14 Lost Ponds, 14 Rock Ponds, 14 Deer Ponds, 13 Grass Ponds, 12 Buck Ponds, 10 Lily Pad Ponds & 10 Bear Ponds.

July 13, 2022 (Wed) - LITTLE GREEN POND & LITTLE CLEAR POND paddling.  Drove up in the morning & found a nice primitive campsite amongst red pines.  After setting up camp, we had time for a half-day exploration so paddled around LGP (2 loons, lots of large polliwogs) & took a short walk to look at Bone Pond.  Did a short carry to LCP & paddled around 2-thirds of the shoreline - good view of St Regis Mtn.  Loons.  5.7 miles, 3.3 hours.

 

June 29, 2022 (Wed) - HOEL POND to LITTLE PINK POND paddling.  Started out on the regular put-in on Hoel & crossed directly over to the carry - could see St Regis Mtn to the N & Long Pond Mtn to the W.  Most of the E shore of Hoel is private, the rest is state land.  You can carry over the old RR bed to Turtle Pond or shoot thru the culvert - I did the latter - there is a 1' drop & some rocks so best for non-composite boats (water level fairly high since it had rained 1.6" 2 days earlier).  Now in the St Regis Canoe Area.  Passed a loon on Turtle.  There was just enough water between Turtle & Slang to permit one to stay in the boat as opposed to getting out & lining.  2 nice campsites on Slang were empty.  Easy 0.1-mile carry to Long Pond, there was some mud tho.  Headed SW on Long - I never get sick of Long.  Most of the best campsites were occupied.  Paddled up the lilypad-filled channel to Pink Pond then up the narrow channel to Little Pink - there was a small beaver dam that was difficult to get over.  Headed back a similar way.  Stopped for lunch on a closed campsite, light mosquito activity (bugs not an issue while we were on the water.  Spotted a loon on a nest - I let the wind push me past & away so as to not disturb.  Lots of sheep laurel blooming, especially on Slang.  Carried over the old rr bed this time.  Saw a loon splashing on Hoel & the wind was picking up.  11.2 miles, 6.2 hours.

      

Sep 3, 2013 - LITTLE CLEAR, GRASS & LITTLE GREEN PONDS.  Short portages in St Regis Canoe Area.  Several loons on Little Clear, mostly undeveloped, no camping or fishing, explored perimeter & inlet marsh/bog to the NW.  Grass is small, nice view from the westernmost campsite.  3 loons on LGP, camping by permit from fish hatchery, no fishing, lovely water.  4+ hours.

Aug 16 & 17, 2009 - ST. REGIS CANOE AREA.  Hoel Pond to Long Pond.  Now a limit of 8 persons per campsite.  Able to line the boats thru the culvert between Hoel & Turtle Ponds.  Also had to get out & line the shallows between Turtle & Slang Ponds.  Single-carried the easy portage to Long Pond.  Soon found an excellent campsite (early Sunday afternoon).  After setting up we headed down the SW arm of Long then up a channel (no obstructions) to Pink Pond then upstream a bit more going over one beaver dam.  At a small landing on L we hiked a sometimes mucky path along the outlet to Ledge Pond & campsite on W shore where a sloping rock made it easy to slide in for a dip - nice!  In the morning explored W lobe & an inlet.  Out the same way.  Fairly busy (canoes outnumber kayaks ~5-1), but still good wilderness feel & lots of loons.  Some motor traffic & camps on Hoel but motor-free within the Canoe Area.  Nice sandy swim spot at the Hoel put-in.  Low bad bug activity.  Bell Merlin II, a 15' solo canoe.

Aug 7, 2006 - LONG POND, St. REGIS CANOE AREA.  After a 5-min. 0.25-mile carry to the pond, paddled most of its perimeter including inlet to NW & channel (1 beaver dam) into PINK POND.  Swam at the beach at the carry to Slang Pond.  Hiked 1 mile over to Mountain Pond, and enjoyed the solitary loon & the wind which kept bad bugs away.  Lots of loons on Long incl. 2 chicks.  Lots of the excellent campsites were occupied - fairly busy for a Monday; otherwise very scenic wilderness.  No motors allowed in the Canoe Area.  9 miles, 7 hours.  Merrimack Traveler tandem canoe. 

July 31/Aug 1, 2005 - St. REGIS CANOE AREA. Little Clear Pond - I pass 8 loons incl. a group of 5. On 0.6 mi. carry trail I go by an exhasperated-looking couple wheeling a canoe & 3 young adults carrying 2 rec kayaks - they are day-tripping, I am carrying an 80lb. load! Entering St. Regis Pond red pines dominate E shore - camped on white pine point with view of St. Regis Mt. Short carry around fish barrier dam then paddle down outlet (W Br St Regis River - very unriverlike here) to Ochre Pond - pink flowers of swamp rose - very shallow at first but gets deeper (over 1') the further one goes - returned upstream. Paddled long way back to camp along N shore.  Day 2 - 7 loons gather for "breakfast club". Short carry to Green Pond (I just sling the canoe over the shoulder & not bother with the removable yoke), Little Long Pond (2 adult loons & 1 chick), Bear Pond (2 adult loons & 2 chicks; youth group campers at private leanto). Back to St. Regis Pond explored a channel to SE which leads into a small pond; an unmarked but obvious trail leads in 7 mins. to Little Clear. Back to St RP, break camp & out. Minimal bad bugs, some skeeters on trails, went DEETless. Stopped at Little Green Pond & watched a summer storm blow thru. Bell Merlin II, a 14' solo canoe. 

Jul 25/26, 2004 - St. REGIS CANOE AREA canoe camping. Ahhh? The St. Regis Canoe Area, where you can spend almost as much time carrying your canoe as paddling it! Only 7 other cars in Floodwood Rd (4 miles of good 2-lane dirt road) parking lot mid-day Sunday. Carried 0.25mi. to Long Pond (one of my favorites). Paddled 2.5 mi. to its N end - only 1 of Long's campsites was occupied. Carried 0.25mi. to an area flooded by beaver. Nuisance paddle of 200' then 1.25mi. to Nellie Pond over a rough trail with a brief stop to say hi to Bessie. Short paddle across the pretty pond with pure stands of white pine. 0.3mi. carry to Kit Fox Pond. Short paddle across scattering thousands of blue/violet damselflies & water boatmen bugs. Pitcher plants, sundews & rose pogonia grew on floating logs. 0.2mi. carry to Little Long where there is only one designated campsite on a small point (new Adirondack Paddler's Map shows campsites). E shore is an esker with pines; N shore is an esker with paper birches - Little Fish pond is just over the other side. Site was clean except for a sheet of plastic someone had rudely left behind. As I picked it up 3 2' brown snakes dropped out - 1 took off, 1 hid in the small woodpile & 1 entertained me for an hour around the firering. Not too buggy - just a little mosquito action at dusk. 2 loons patrolled the pond. After dinner, paddled to W end of pond past button-topped stalks of pipewort in the shallows, a beaver sat on a log. Short carry to Lydia Pond (lone campsite is unattractive) - an old dam is at the outlet. Watched the sun set with the loons & beavers. Next morning, packed up & took a walk over esker to Fish Pond. Returned to Long Pond via same route but dropped the canoe into Bessie & paddled its small but varied shoreline. Mid-day Monday saw 4 campsites occupied on Long. Sawyer Summersong , a 15'4" 30lb. Kevlar canoe - very good speed, excellent tracking, fair turning (unless edged). Had problem keeping the removable yoke on the round aluminum gunwales. Sawyer went out of business a few years ago, the Summersong is an early Dave Yost design a bit more like modern Wenonahs than Bells.

Aug 3&4, 2002 - St. Regis Canoe Area canoe camping. Carried 0.25 mi. to Long Pond from the SW. Used Roleez Kayak/Canoe Cart which worked well over the final rocky downslope (uphill on way out) - most of the trail is pretty smooth. Paddled to the N end of the lake & found my favorite campsite available. Passed 5 loons along the way. Into the W arm to pick up the hiking trail to Long Pond Mt.. Pass Mountain Pond at 0.6 mi. which provided for a refreshing swim on our return. Trail then climbs steeply gaining about 800' in 1 mile. Spectacular views E & S of the many ponds in the canoe area, the Saranac Lakes & the High Peaks beyond. A path W leads to another area of open rocks with views S & W. See 2 adult loons with 2 chicks on the paddle back to camp. Go out for a sunset paddle. Very clear moonless night was perfect for stargazing. Short smooth carry over to Slang Pond & we cruise its shoreline then thru a narrows into Turtle Pond. At its S end is the old Adirondack Railroad bed & we cross it to see the partially developed Hoel Pond - the presence of a motorboat makes me return to Turtle. At Turtle's N end is the 1 mile carry to Clamshell Pond - the carry trail is closed so we hike to see why. In 10 min. we see that an old beaver dam has been breached & what was once a beaver pond is now muddy stream/marsh & a carry around its edge would have to be considered a bushwhack. Did this carry about 4 yrs. ago & seem to remember boardwalk & bridges across the wet area. Back to Long Pond for a swim from a sandy beach at the end of the carry. After a rest at camp we head out making a side-trip into secluded Pink Pond before carrying out. Biting flies somewhat prevalent in the afternoons - minimal mosquito action early & in the evening. Merrimack Traveler, a 17', 58lb. tandem Kevlar canoe with cherry ribs - its symmetrical shape allows for some nice solo freestyle paddling & makes for a good cruising tandem - most of the other canoes I paddle are more modern asymmetrical shapes. Used the Trekker Tarp & Insert as my "tent" - open air camping with bug protection & plenty of room for 2.

May 19&20, 2002 - St. Regis Canoe Area canoe camping. Across Little Clear Pond then carried 0.6 mi. to St. Regis Pond (camped at leanto); robins & grackles around camp + lots of painted trillium & fly-honeysuckle around the leanto. Carried 0.5 mi. to Ochre Pond (surrounded by virgin coniferous forest, saw snapping turtle in the inlet); carried 1.0 mi. to Mud Pond (some blowdown; trail near Mud is very wet); short carry to Fish Pond (1 loon); ran short rapids into Little Fish Pond; climbed esker & took a look at the clear green waters of Little Long Pond; back to Fish & back to camp via old truck trail (2.0 mi. carry) - snow flurries made things interesting. Each pond's size & character is unique & I enjoy checking them all out. Back to leanto by 7pm - just enough time to start a fire, sip on a strong beer, cook dinner & relax in my soft Thermarest Easy Chair. Barely went below freezing overnight - loons called thru the dark.

Glorious sunrise but clouds roll in as day progresses with snow/sleet showers (only last a few minutes - not as bad as it may sound). St. Regis (2 loons + 1 flying); short carry to the appropriately named Green Pond where we are entertained by 3 loons + 1 flying; carry 0.25 mi. to Little Long Pond; carry 0.25 mi. to Bear Pond (2 loons) which has some private land; short carry to Bog Pond (leatherleaf flowering); walk short distance to Upper St. Regis Lake with its fancy camps. Retraced route back to Green (St. Regis Mt. seen at different angles from most of these ponds) then carry 0.7 mi. thru leafless deciduous forest to Little Clear (6 loons) & out. Flowering purple trillium, trout lilies & hobblebush. Tree swallows darted over the water & quite the variety of songbirds & woodpeckers on shore - herons noticeably absent. A great day of looning.....no bugs, few people. Paddled over 7 miles each day exploring shorelines - each pond should be savored - try not to just dart across - all ponds are less than 2 miles long. Swift Kipawa, 16'6" tandem Kevlar canoe worked out well for the most part. With Jamacque's upper body strength in the bow, we could really motor along when we wanted to - although with some oil-canning in the middle of the hull I feel the Kipawa does not reach its full potential (Swift says this should not happen & is replacing the boat). Deep dish yoke was good on short carries but on long carries tended to slip back off my shoulders - may add some padding. Felt that with our close to 550lb. load that we were at the top limit of the Kipawa's safe carrying capacity - would go for the 17.5' Winisk on bigger lakes where bigger waves might be expected (confirmed by Swift's Optimum load range chart). Most manufacurers list capacity with the canoe at the 6" waterline (the lowest point of the gunwale is 6" above the water) - this is pretty useless because with any kind of wave action water will enter the canoe no matter how well it is designed. So don't be confused by maximum weight capacity & optimum weight capacity.

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