JESSUP RIVER & INDIAN LAKE CANOEING
April 25, 2016 - Jessup River upstream from Jessup River Rd (dirt). 0.9 miles to foot of rapids. 3 deer ran across the rapids in front of me! 0.2 mile carry (part bushwhack, part on logging road)) around the rapids. Mossy Vly Brook comes in at 1.9 miles. 0.4 miles further up the Jessup saw an otter run along the bank & dive into the water. Carried around a logjam & stopped at another. Lots of shallow sandy-bottomed sections. Poked up shallow Mossy Vly on way back. 5.1 miles, 4.1 hours. Perkins Clearing Road & Jessup River Road open & in good shape - usually closed until sometime in May for mud season.
May 23, 2010 - JESSUP RIVER & INDIAN LAKE paddling from Jessup River Rd (dirt) near Perkins Clearing in the central Adirondacks. Spotted cars at the Indian Lake state boat launch, paid day use fee. Some blackflies & mosquitoes at start but minimal during trip - started out wearing my Original Bugshirt but eventually took it off. Several pull-overs & one rough carry around a big logjam in the first couple of miles. Scenery varies nicely on the narrow twisty stream. Passed under the NY30 bridge - have often put in here & paddled upstream & back. ~1.5 miles below Rt.30 is a class 2 ledge runnable on the R then ~0.5 mile of rocky rapids, water fairly low today so we hit some rocks but were able to stay in the boat (water level is usually best in early May). Most of the rest of the group carried past the first half on the R then paddled/lined the shallow & rocky 2nd half. Indian Lake was just easy paddling in comparison. Distant view of High Peaks, Snowy Mtn nearby. Mergansers with chicks, much birdsong incl. white-throated sparrow. 14.9 miles, 7 hours.
Folks who like to fish can try for lake, brown and rainbow trout, landlocked salmon, rock bass, smallmouth bass and northern pike. Birdlife to look for includes loons, wood ducks, mallards (so bold they might walk right into your campsite looking for a handout), common mergansers, osprey and merlin. Chipmunks, red squirrels and beaver are commonly seen. On a recent visit, I found some fresh moose tracks. Because of the lake’s orientation, winds greater than 15 miles per hour can produce waves of over one-foot, especially if the wind is coming from the southwest, south, north or north-east. Novice paddlers should probably get some experience on smaller bodies of water before venturing out onto Indian Lake. Note also that calm mornings can morph into blustery afternoons. I often carry a weather radio to check on the latest forecast for the Adirondacks.
I will describe a paddling route going clockwise around the lake, starting at the state boat launch just off Route 30, 12 miles north of Speculator, and 12 miles south of Route 28 in Indian Lake Village. Obviously, the average canoeist, kayaker or SUPer is not going to paddle 49 miles in one day, so repeat visits or a camping stay of a few days will allow one to explore different sections of the lake.
Immediately after launching into the southwestern arm, the outlet of Lewey Lake comes in from the left. Early in the season or after much rain you may be able to paddle over a broken concrete dam under the Route 30 bridge and into Lewey Lake. Continuing north on the left shore you pass lakeside campsites, which are part of the Lewey Lake State Campground, unfortunately, they are also highway side too. Soon the shoreline pulls away from the road then a small island is passed at Poplar Point about 1.5 miles from the start.
Some private land comes next as you paddle past the lodge and cabins of Timberlock summer family resort in Sabael. Long Island, with six campsites, is seen to the east. While rounding Watch Point you’re now in the main body of the lake. In a small cove is a picnic area next to a waterfall on Griffin Brook. Campsite 11, the only campsite on the west shore, is on a point just past the cove, and has a sandy beach on the north side of the point. The High Peaks can be seen in the far distance. You are now about four miles from the launch.It is not long before Route 30, private land, and cottages dominate the shoreline all the way to The Narrows and the dam – built in 1898, at the lake’s north end which controls the level of the lake. Usually, lake level is drawn down somewhat later in the season – not a bad thing since you will find more sandy beaches to stop at. Now heading south along the eastern shoreline you reach campsite one – an eight-mile direct paddle from the launch – then Norman’s Cove after going about two miles from the dam. Here you find a picnic site and the trailhead for a hike to Baldface Mountain. The 1.1-mile trail gains 580 feet to the 2,230-foot summit, which has an excellent view of much of the lake and beyond to Snowy and Blue mountains. Back on the water and out of the cove you pass Kirpens Island. Shoreline and especially island campsites become more numerous. Snowy Mountain’s rock face overlooks the lake, rising 2,250 feet above lake level, providing for photo opportunities galore. On a point is a picnic area at Long Beach. This can be a very popular spot on a warm sunny summer weekend. Around the corner, the 1.8-mile trail to scenic Crotched Pond starts next to Campsite 14.
More islands are passed as you continue south and into John Mack Bay. On the bay’s east shore next to campsite 27 is the 1.4-mile hiking trail to John Mack Pond. Nearby are John Mack Island and campsite 28, a very desirable site with a beach and magnificent view. To the southeast of the bay, an interesting river-like channel eventually leads past an island, and the paddling ends at John Mack Brook. Back to the bay and out toward Long Island, you round the point north of Gates Hill and campsite 33, which has a commanding view up the lake.
Turning south-southwest, down a long narrow arm, it is five miles to where the Jessup River flows into the lake. There are several desirable campsites on the east shore on this more secluded section of the lake. Campsite 50 is at Chocolate Bar, a wooded knoll – I only mention this because I like the name. The waterway becomes narrower and rockier as we enter the Jessup River. I have reached Indian Lake a couple of times by paddling down the Jessup from Route 30. In high water I’ve run the section of rocky rapids before the lake, but in low water you must likely portage on the river right. There is another picnic area where Dug Mountain Brook enters the lake at a small but pretty falls. A 0.4-mile trail walk along the north side of the brook brings you to 40-foot waterfalls.
Starting back north on the west side of this Jessup arm, you pass the emancipation Island picnic site. The rocky south side of the island is a pleasant place to relax and gaze into the clear water. A small piece of private land is then passed before you round Indian Point, and start back down the southwest arm checking out a couple of coves on the south shore before returning to the launch. Whew! My arms are falling off – that was quite a day’s paddle!
Sep 6-10, 2012 - INDIAN LAKE. 4 nights at campsite #35 at N end of Long Island. Water level drawn down 7' below normal summer level - exposed more interesting rocky shores & beaches. Day 2: Visited the waterfalls on Griffin Brook on W shore before crossing & paddling along W side of islands. Hike to Baldface Mtn - climb of 580' in 1.3 miles - very nice views. Paddled further N but turned around before the narrows. 14 miles paddling. Day 3: Very windy. Waiting out the tornado watch. (24 boats capsized on Long Lake during the 90 Miler race - story). Day 4: Emancipation Island. Jessup River very shallow - had to line the canoes 100' to land at the picnic area. 0.3 mile hike to 30' Dug Mountain Brook falls. Stopped at Chocolate Bar (campsite #50). Nice view of High Peaks (incl. Algonquin, Colden, Marcy) on way back to camp. 15 miles. Day 5: High temp in the 50s & windy too! Ankle-biting flies when sunny & warm (above 70F); no mosquitoes. Some motorboats. Swift Keewaydin 16, a lightweight 16' tandem canoe.
May 14, 2012 - INDIAN LAKE from Lewey Lake campsite #2 on Rt.30. Some drizzle in the morning but got some sun when I got out to paddle. Fresh moose tracks going right thru the campsite. S wind 0-10mph. Headed to John Mack Bay. SW part not too interesting but channel to the SE of the bay was nice - saw wood ducks & peepers were peeping. Stopped at John Mack Island (campsite #28) with sand beach & view across the bay to Snowy. Back around N & W sides of Long Island. Saw 3 motorboats (2 of which were campground workers), no other paddlers. 10 miles, 3.4 hours.
May 13, 2012 - INDIAN LAKE from state boat launch off Rt.30. Camped for 2 nights near the launch - technically part of Lewey Lake Campground, roadnoise, view of Snowy Mtn. Spring peepers & loons provided the music. Boat access campsites on the lake are part of Indian Lake Islands Campground & should be reserved ahead of time (May 17-Oct 7 season, free outside of that time span). Some development mostly on W shore & at N end of lake. Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area is to the E. Paddled NE, then E of Long Island, then up E shore past several islands. Stopped at Long Beach picnic area. Turned back around Doherty Island (campsite #7) & crossed to W side. Stopped to check out falls on Griffin Brook in a small cove S of campsite #11. View of Snowy Mtn much of the way - rises 2,250' above the lake. SW wind 5-15mph - waves less than 1'. Mergansers (males in breeding plumage), gulls, hairy woodpecker, osprey, merlin, sandpipers, hummingbird, mallards, C geese, chipmunk, red squirrels, beaver; red & painted trillium. Some blackflies on land but they didn't seem very hungry - quite bearable - no need for DEET or the Original Bugshirt - did pre-impregnate some of my clothing with permethrine tho. Saw 3 motorboats, no other paddlers. 14 miles, 5.5 hours. Wilderness Systems Zephyr 155, a 15.5' sea kayak, more maneuverable than most - the 155 is the smaller version, I am 5'11" & had 240 lbs on board comfortably, I still think I like the roomier 160 better. Check out the old map at the boat launch & the cute local names; examples: Baldy Mtn instead of Baldface, Dorothy - Doherty, Johnny Mack Bay, Popple Point - Poplar.
Aug 29, 2011 - INDIAN LAKE from Rt.30. Winds 5-15mph, waves up to 1' - lots of puffy clouds on a blue background, temp in the 60s. Visited the falls on Diamond Brook ~5 miles N on the W shore. Crossed to the E shore, stopped for lunch on a sandy beach then headed S thru the islands. Great views of Snowy Mtn. Down the S (Jessup River) arm a ways. Took long break sunning myself on a smooth rock. Saw maybe a dozen motor boats & a handful of paddlers, most campsites unoccupied. Float plane took off. Loons. 14.5 miles, 5+ hours. Dagger Alchemy, a 14' touring kayak.
May 23, 2010 - JESSUP RIVER & INDIAN LAKE from Perkins Clearing. Some blackflies & mosquitoes at start but minimal during trip - started out wearing my Original Bugshirt but eventually took it off. Several pull-overs & one rough carry around a big logjam in first couple of miles. Scenery varies nicely on the narrow twisty stream. ~1.5 miles below Rt.30 is a class 2 ledge runnable on the R then ~0.5 mile of rocky rapids, water fairly low today so we hit some rocks but were able to stay in the boat. Most of the rest of group carried past the first half on the R then paddled/lined the shallow & rocky 2nd half. Indian Lake was just easy paddling in comparison. Distant view of High Peaks, Snowy Mtn nearby. $6 day use fee at boat launch. Mergansers with chicks, much birdsong incl. white-throated sparrow. 14.9 miles, 7 hours. Bell Chestnut Prospector 16' royalex canoe was an excellent choice - royalex is slippery, tough & light enough for short portages.
July 17, 2005 - JESSUP RIVER from Perkins Clearing Rd. Put-in just upstream from the bridge. Paddled upstream less than a mile to a series of rapids then turned around. Under the bridge is a short rapid that requires some maneuvering (or you can carry or line) - got thru without much scraping. Below this the Jessup is a wild flatwater stream for the 4-5 miles to Rt.30 - I went about 2-3 miles before turning around past Whitteaker Lake Outlet. Sandy banks make good resting places. One beaverdam & some downed trees (someone has sawed thru the major blockages). Songbirds abound incl. white-throated sparrow. Interesting & fun paddle.
May 6, 2001 - Jessup River to Indian Lake canoeing. Put-in on Rt.30. First mile is mainly thru alders then pine/hemlock shoreline takes over. Pretty soon 2 trees block the route, some of us go around on land (a bit steep) & some go over. A bit later another downed tree can be slid across with some hard paddling. After a right turn rapids can be seen ahead. We get out on river right & scout out. Small ledge across large part river but good opening on right. Have to do some maneuvering to miss rocks just below surface - Class 2 rapid (defined as easy rapids with waves up to 3' & wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting; some maneuvering required.) Aluminum bruisewater with keel got stuck on some rocks - Royalex is more slippery & forgiving & is the favored material in modern day whitewater canoes. Somewhat boney after that, best to stay to the right. River curves to left. Class 1 rapids (defined as moving water with a few riffles & small waves; few or no obstructions), shallow at end. Right shore quite steep. Jamacque, who brought a cedar strip sea kayak, carried around first section but ran the second half of rapids. Total of about half mile of rapids then things calm down & Dug Mountain Brook is seen on the right as it drops over a small picturesque falls. Excellent spot for a break. Can walk a path upstream 10 min. to a bigger falls. Continued out onto the southern arm of Indian Lake. From right shore get great views of Snowy Mt. to the NW & in the very distance to the N, Algonquin in the High Peaks. See 2 loons. Camped at site #33 on the point to the east of Long Island. Could see Mts. Algonquin, Colden & Marcy (highest point in NY). Lots of ducks. Music provided by barred owls, loons & frogs. Big Dipper overhead. ~8 miles.
Apr. 30, 2001 - Jessup River canoeing. Paddled the Wildfire RX upstream from Rt.30 (put-in on SW side) which was a fair amount of work due to current. Shoreline varied & interesting - good wilderness feel. Sandy bottom. Saw school of large fish. Went about 2 miles til steep woods & a tributary were on left (river right) & a large tree blocked the stream ahead. Went up the tributary & saw large beaver as I approached its dam. Over dam & upstream a bit. On return saw 2 otters splashing around in the beaver pool. Return to Rt.30 only took 40 min. ~4 mi. 3 hrs.
Apr. 30, 2001 - Jessup River hike. Camped out across from the E. Canada Creek on the Powley-Piseco Rd., a dirt road with many drive-in campsites. Road closed for the most part as often happens in spring; washouts have to be regraded. Woke up to below freezing temps but much birdsong. Drove over to where Rt.30 meets the Jessup River. Wanted to scout the Jessup downstream. Bushwhacked NE, trying not to stray too far from the river but hit some dense growth & moved further north & ran into a snowmobile trail (not on maps). Took this NE, saw 5 whitetail deer. When I thought I was close to river, bushwhacked thru woods again, some wet spots, some patches of snow. Arrived at the river opposite Dug Mtn. Brook. Bushwhacked along river upstream to check out the rapids (~ 0.5 mi. of Class 1 & 2). At top of rapids (small ledge here), walked west (staying in hardwoods to right of small spruces), hit snowmobile trail again & walked it back almost all the way to Rt.30 (20 min. from river). Map & compass skills needed. Indian Lake (& most others) still mostly covered with ice. Ice is off Canada & Caroga Lakes. 3-4 mi. 2.5 hrs.
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